Skincare 101 - My Top 10 fave ‘active ingredients’
So my skin is super temperamental. It likes what it likes, and doesn’t like what it doesn’t like.
And too many people hit me up with the token ‘I don’t use anything and my skin is clear.’ Well done Caren, thats your genes, not your lack on knowledge or effort you put into your skin.
Whether you get acne, pigmentation or not, you should still know and use skin products that contain active ingredients to fight against sun damage, pollution and that diet you may be splurging on whilst in isolation. Because let’s be real, all of our diets have been thrown out the window at this point.
I love learning about skincare and finding solutions to my skin issues. I like to tackle those random breakouts as well as keep my skin looking good, hydrated and know that I’m addressing/slowing down the inevitable ageing process. So let’s get onto learning about my top 10 favourite skincare products with actives that also don’t break the bank!
‘Active ingrediants’ - What’re those!?
Look if you’re not using actives in skincare, honestly, why bother? This whole clean and simple skincare gimmick irritates me. I want visible results. I want science. I don’t want a glorified moisturiser in a pretty bottle. I feel like these brands are a gimmick for those who have been genetically blessed but dont want to miss out on the whole ‘face care regime’ craze.
Simply put, active ingredients within products mean there’s a chemical or molecule in that product that is doing what the product says it’s supposed to do/treat. An active ingredient has been proven in a lab by research to change the skin in some way; it's an ingredient that has data behind it. So if it says, ‘treats acne’ it’ll be backed up by a dermatologist study.
not every product has actives in it, and to me, the ones that don’t are pointless. Not everything has to target acne, but your skincare needs to provide, hydration, repair, protect and encourage cell turn over for brighter, healthier looking skin.
So now that’s out of the way, let’s have a look at my go to actives.
Hydration - hyaluronic acid.
There’s no doubt about the efficacy of hyaluronic acid; hailed as a skincare hero by experts and dermatologists alike, it’s a humectant (meaning it helps reduce the loss of moisture) that can hold up to 1000x its own weight in water.
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally-occuring substance within our bodies that works to help retain the much-needed moisture that both skin and joints need, but as we get older levels tend to deplete which can lead to dullness and loss of elasticity along with fine lines and wrinkles.
So essentially, hyaluronic acid pulls moisture out from the air and draws it into the skin through the pores. Providing much needed hydration, plumping the skin and keeping it nourished.
my go-to
The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 30ml
Key benefits of The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
Instant hydration for skin
Suitable for all skin types, including oily skin, due to its easy absorption and weightless texture
Enriched with Vitamin B5 to boost surface hydration
Uses multiple molecular weights of Hyaluronic Acid for multi-depth hydration
Non-comedogenic formulation - ie - doesn’t clog pores.
Things to keep in mind about hyaluronic acid in general
It can feel tacky/ a little sticky so pair with a moisturiser
Also, always moisturise when using hyaluronic acid because like mentioned earlier. this product pulls moisture from the air and into the skin. However, if you’re in an area with little humidity it will do the reverse and pull moisture from your skin and throw it out into the air. So think air-conditioned rooms. not a lot of humidity. So by layering a moisturiser on top of the hyaluronic acid, you’re creating a barrier to lock in the moisture in the skin and just allow the product to take from the air and not the other way round.
Repair - Acne/Pigmentation
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is in a class of medications called dicarboxylic acids. It works to treat rosacea by decreasing the swelling and redness of the skin. It works to treat acne by killing the bacteria that infect pores and by decreasing production of keratin, a natural substance that can lead to the development of acne. - I love this stuff!
my go-to
Azclear Action Medicated Lotion 25g
Key benefits
Oil free
invisible
targets rosacea/pigmentation as well as acne which is rare.
this one is 20% which is way higher than the ordinary one so better results from this.
Things to keep in mind
It can go pilly (ball up and peel off) if you rub too hard or apply on super dry skin. So prep the skin with your hyaluronic acid first then go in with this.
Get it from Chemist Warehouse, but you have to go up to the prescription counter. You dont need a script, they just don’t put it on the shelves anymore.
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid belongs to a class of drugs known as salicylates. When applied to the skin, salicylic acid may work by helping the skin to shed dead cells from the top layer and by decreasing redness and swelling (inflammation). This decreases the number of pimples that form and speeds healing.
my go-to atm
La Roche-Posay Effaclar Micro Peeling Cleanser 200ml
Key benefits
Alcohol Free
Mineral Oil Free
2% salicylic acid - decent amount.
Things to keep in mind
Apply on damp skin - damp! like at the start of your shower spritz your face and then apply it on your face and leave it on whilst you clean your body. You have to let the product actually get to work so give it at least 3minutes to do its thing. otherwise you’re just flushing money and good actives down the drain! and that pretty much applies with any cleanser btw!
Benzoyl peroxide
BPO is non-prescription drug that works to destroy acne-causing bacteria in your pores. BPO works primarily as an exfoliating agent by increasing the turnover of the skin and removes the mixture of sebum and dead skin cells from the pores.
my go-to
Key Benefits
• Kills acne bacteria
• Reduces blackheads and whiteheads
• Clears blocked pores
• Removes excess oiliness as well as rehydrating the skin during treatment
Things to keep in mind
It’s essentially a form of bleach so it will lighten your towels and clothes. So keep away from your coloured pillowcase and towels. Stick with white whilst you’re using it.
It comes in 2.5% / 5%/ 10% levels so work your way up. Otherwise you could run the chance of burning your skin. its like a sun burn so not scary. Just uncomfortable.
Use as a spot treatment rather than a full face thing.
Get it from Chemist Warehouse, but you have to go up to the prescription counter. You dont need a script, they just don’t put it on the shelves anymore.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant (anti-ager.). Because of its antioxidant properties, vitamin C aids in your skin's natural regeneration process, which helps your body repair damaged skin cells. ie - its good for freckles, sun spots, melazma, redness and uneven skin tone.
My go-to
The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution 12% 30ml
Key Benefits
First signs of ageing
Pigmentation, uneven skin tone
Wrinkles and loss of firmness
Things to keep in mind
When you apply, it feels warm. Don’t be alarmed. It doesn’t sting or anything, its just something to note. It traps your body warmth almost for a couple of seconds.
‘Anti-ageing’
Retinoid
The original intent of retinoids was actually used to treat acne and prescribed to many young people. It wasn't until the 1980s , when a study published the skin benefits — like softening fine lines and lightening hyperpigmentation — that retinoids got remarketed as “anti-aging.” It’s essentially a weaker, non prescription Retin A which is the only proven ingredient to ‘turn back the clock.’
You can get a script form a GP to get ‘Tretinoin’ which is the stronger version. It’s a medication used to treat acne and sun-damaged skin. It can't erase deep wrinkles, but it can help improve the appearance of surface wrinkles, fine lines, and darks spots. Tretinoin is also known as retinoic acid. It's the generic name for synthetic vitamin A.
my go-to, over the counter, lower grade retinoid atm
Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion
Key Benefits
helps with pigmentation/acne
helps with skin resurfacing and smoothing
brightening
works quickly
Things to keep in mind
If you want the real kick - get the script from your GP. I’m yet to do it but I will soon!
The ordinary sell a retinol ‘squalene’ but it hasn’t been scientifically proven to work. The granactive however, has been tested across a range of brands. And I personally prefer the granactive emulsion and do see a difference in comparison to the squalene formula.
Protect
DIMETHICONE
This medication is used as a moisturizer to treat or prevent dry, rough, scaly, itchy skin and minor skin irritations. It also allows products to be applied seamlessly, and in makeup primers, it prevents foundation from changing colour and cracking.
my go-to moisturiser atm
La Roche- Posay Effaclar H Moisturiser 40ml
Key Benefits
• Enriched with zinc sulphate
• Targets key signs of oily, acne prone skin
• Created with just three ingredients
• Hypoallergenic
• Tested under dermatological control.
• Recommended by dermatologists worldwide.
Things to keep in mind
It’s quite rich. It wont clog your pores and is fragrance free. But you’ll feel it on your skin. It can be a bit shiny too for day time wear. So i stick to wearing it at night.
Zinc Oxide
Offers broad spectrum protection against UVB and UVA rays—similar to what you would get in a chemical sunscreen—without the harmful ingredients. It’s honestly the best practise when it comes to sun protection and if you didn’t already know this, Sun damage is the number one ager! smoking and drinking coming in 2nd and 3rd. So if you’re not wearing sunscreen daily, then you’re going to be a spotty, wrinkly potato in no time. And it will take expensive lasers and years of treatments to try and make it better.
my go-to sun protection
Natural Clear Zinc SPF 50+
Key Benefits
• Made from natural Zinc Oxide; skin-soothing properties; perfect for sensitive skin.
• Reef and ocean safe formula.
• Mineral-based sun care forms a non-irritating, physical surface barrier for all-round family protection.
• Super-hydrating blend of coconut oil and antioxidant-rich
vitamin E.
• Water resistant for 4 hours.
For my body, I use
MECCA - To Save Body SPF50 Superscreen
Key Benefits
defends against the evils of UVA/UVB and free radicals.
4 hours water resistance
a non-oily and non-whitening formula
ideal for wear when outdoors or exercising
Mask/Peel
THE ORDINARY - AHA 30% + BHA 2% PEELING SOLUTION
An exfoliating peel.
Treating the top layer of skin, AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution exfoliates for a brighter and clearer complexion. Fighting visible blemishes, continued weekly use reduces pore congestion and fine lines for a bright, youthful complexion.
Not to be used on sensitive, damaged skin
AHA 30% + BHA 2% Peeling Solution causes enhanced sensitivity to sunlight, always follow with sun protection
KEEP IN MIND
Some products work better for AM and PM. Same goes for what goes first and/or togther. Which is where the whole routine comes into play. So here’s my break down.
MORNING
Cleanse - Posay Effaclar Micro Peeling Cleanser
Vitamin C - The Ordinary Ascorbyl Glucoside Solution
Azliac Acid - Azclear Action Medicated Lotion 25g
DIMETHICONE - La Roche- Posay Effaclar H Moisturiser 40ml
ZINC sun protection - Natural Clear Zinc SPF 50+
NIGHT
Cleanse - Posay Effaclar Micro Peeling Cleanser
Azliac Acid - Azclear Action Medicated Lotion 25g
Retinoid - Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion
DIMETHICONE - La Roche- Posay Effaclar H Moisturiser 40ml
If I’ve got spots. I put Benzoyl peroxide (Benzac) on at night after the moisturiser.
Once a month
Mask/Peel - THE ORDINARY - AHA 30% + BHA 2% PEELING SOLUTION
I hope this has cleared a few questions about actives and there might be some items in here you can add to your skincare regime. Or begin one! just be sure to add a few actives. But, take it slow, and read all care instructions to prevent any complications and of course consult a gp if you have any concerns. :)
Until next time, check out a few more posts below!